Thursday 1st June
Los Barriles – La Paz 98 Km
We said good-bye to Baja Sunrise RV Park, and Jorge and Sergio, until our return in November. It was hard to drive away from the beach and the beautiful Bahia las Palmas. At the same time, we were looking forward to being back on the road again, seeing new places, meeting new people and catching up with some old friends on the way. The first leg of the journey was just 98 Km through the mountains to La Paz. The road was quiet, except for the occasional wandering goat herd, and we made good time. Our first stop was Walmart to stock up with supplies before going to our campsite for the night at Maranatha RV Park.
Friday 2nd June
La Paz – Loreto 350 Km
Heading west away from the coast we crossed an area of rolling hills and then flat desert before the terrain changed to irrigated farmland as we approached the large agricultural town of Ciudad Constitucion. Mex 1 continues through the centre of the town past numerous four- way stop signs towards the next town, Ciudad Insergentes, here we turned east. Leaving the irrigated farm country behind us, we began a gradual climb into the Sierra Giganta.
Our first view of the sea loomed into sight as we started our descent to the coast.
From the coast road, we had views over Loreto Bay National Marine Park and the off-shore islands.
Continuing towards Loreto we passed the beautifully laid out Nopolo Resort Hotel and golf course.
After parking at our stop for the night at Rivera del Mar RV Park -18 dollars per night
We walked into the town centre and strolled around the main plaza in the evening sunshine. In the plaza is the Posada las Flores hotel, a Spanish colonial style building with pink walls. An unusual feature is the glass bottom roof-top pool built over the hotels court yard.
Dinner was at Orlandos Restaurant. While there four people turned up in a very nicely restored old Ford Model T.
Saturday 3rd June
Loreto – Santispac Beach 536 Km
We departed the RV Park at 0930 and continued north to one of our favourite beaches on the Bahia Concepcion. A few kilometers outside town we came to a military stop. The young soldiers were very courteous, while one looked through the RV another spoke to us and completed a questionnaire, taking details of names ages, where from, where to etc, he spoke excellent English.
The route to Santispac Beach runs through a wide valley with the Sierra Giganta running along to our left. Mex 1 runs parallel to the large Bahia Concepcion for over 30 Km.
Two cows just taking a stroll along the main highway, no rush.
Pelicans having a fish feeding frenzy.
Many of the beautiful beaches along this shallow bay can be seen from the highway.
The cost to stay on Playa Santispac is 150 pesos (8 US dollars) per night. There are no services here but the price includes a palapa to provide shade.
Sal, one of the boatmen came over to talk to us with his little chihuahua, Chiquitito. Sandy and Chiquitito got on very well.
Sunday 4th June
Playa Santispac – San Ignacio 807 Km
Spent the morning in the sea and on the beach before setting off to our next destination.
At lunch-time we got back on Mex 1 to continue our journey north. We noticed that the RV had now clocked up 30,000 miles. The first town we came to was Mulege, a mission town alongside the lushly palm fringed Rio Santa Rosalita.
Mex 1 continues north to the coastal mining town of Santa Rosalia. The road is potholed and rough most of the way through town. There are several old rusting buildings, some have been renovated, reminders of the towns history as a mining centre since the 19th Century.
We left the Sea of Cortez behind us and entered the Sierra San Francisco. Travelling west we climbed into the mountains the road had steep grades and curves, one section is the steepest grade on Mex 1. We noticed some of the metal edge barriers were missing or bent, didn’t bear thinking about the reason why they were missing! We came to the volcanic mountain and lava flows of the Las Tres Virgines (The Three Virgins). A volcanic mountain with three explosion cones, hence the name.
The narrow road runs in a straight line through the desert to the oasis town of San Ignacio. We stayed at our usual place, Rice and Beans RV Park, hotel and restaurant just outside the town at San Lino.
Monday 5th June
San Ignacio - Guerrero Negro 144 Km
Just outside San Ignacio we came to a military checkpoint. As always, a very polite young soldier came on board to inspect the RV, asking us in the little English he spoke all about our trip.
The road continued across mostly cardon cactus desert, then the datilillo plant, a member of the yucca family, dominated the landscape.
After reaching the town of Vizcaino we headed west through the Vizcaino Desert. The landscape changed as we neared the west coast becoming flat grass and scrub land growing on stabilised sand dunes that had blown inland from the coast.
Guerrero Negro is a company town and has a large salt works. We booked in at Malarrimo RV Park and Restaurant for dinner and our overnight stop. The cost for full hook here is 240 pesos (12 dollars). Very economical for electric, sewer outlet and water supply. The water standpipe had a tap and another shut off valve further down the pipe. After we had connected and filled our fresh water tank I closed off both taps. Unfortunately, as we found out, the shut off valve also stopped the water supply to the restaurant kitchen – Oops!
Tuesday 6th June
Guerrero Negro – San Quintin 1187 Km
A cloudy morning as we set off to continue our journey north and a long drive day ahead. Just outside of the town we passed the military base with its huge flag and crossed the border into the northern section of Baja California - changing from mountain to pacific time in the process.
A little way along we came to a military check point. As two soldiers carried out their inspection of the RV, one of them noticed our small tub of baking soda used for bread making. As they are mainly looking for guns and drugs any white powder was suspicious. He dipped a finger into the tub of white powder, tasted it and looked quizzically at us. We explained, as best we could, that we had certainly been cooking but the white powder was used only for bread making. After showing him our latest loaf of bread, it was all smiles and we were on our way.
The landscape across the centre of the country is desert plains and scenic cactus desert - almost looks like cactus forests in some places - and a dry salt lake. Although the countryside is interesting and quite unique in parts, the roads are not, they are potholed, very narrow and have no shoulder for long stretches.
Stopped for lunch at Catavina, in this area an assortment of cactus grows amongst large boulders fields. Just before entering town we saw a solder with gun at the ready sitting on top of one of the large boulders.
The rare cirio tree grows here and it is probably the only places in the world that they can be seen.
There are huge cardon cactus here, also chollas, barrel cactus, and agaves.
A few kilometers out of Catavina the road improved as we headed back towards the west coast. We passed several Ranchos before starting the climb into the mountains towards the town of El Rosario. Descending into the valley we came to El Rosario and took a sharp right in the town to start the climb to the top of the El Rosario Mesa. There was another military stop and inspection. They wanted to bring a sniffer dog on board. Sandy was not at all happy and started to growl and he decided against it. We soon got our first view of the sea and the sand dunes.
Pulled in at El Pabellon RV Park for the night. This is a quiet un-spoilt spot sheltered from the wind behind sand dunes on miles of beach next to the Pacific Ocean.
Sandy was delighted to have the beach and the ocean outside the door again.
It had been a long day, seven hours on the road but we had gained an hour by changing to Pacific time.
Wednesday 7th June
San Quintin – Guadalupe Valley 225 Km
A dull morning again with lots of low cloud mixed with a little sea mist.
Turning onto the highway we went through San Quintin and a series of busy agricultural towns. The large Los Pinos company is based here specializing in fruit and vegetable production, particularly tomatoes and cucumber. Lining the road are rows of tents covering the growing or processing areas. There is also a population of migrant workers supporting the agricultural industry.
We left the desert cactus country behind for green irrigated farm land and, as we got further north the vineyards of the Santo Tomas and Guadalupe Valley’s
Santa Tomas Winery
Sordo Mudo RV Park in the Guadalupe Valley, our overnight stop, with L A Cetto winery in the background.